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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.